Facts, figures, help and funding advice from local specialists.
Menu
Home
News Desk
Membership Benefits
Aims & Objectives
Services & Projects
Events/Activities
Energy Gallery
The Green Directory
Downloads
Energy Links
Biomass Opportunity Helpline
Contact DARE
Further Information
Renewable Energy
Facts & FAQ's
General Funding
Wind Turbine
Hydro Electric
Energy from Biomass
Solar Power/Heating
Geothermal Energy
Wave Power
Anaerobic Digestion
 
Solar Power / Heating

To download this factsheet on PV in pdf format please click here RIGHT CLICK & 'SAVE AS' to save a copy of this file to your Computer. LEFT CLICK to open it in this window.

Introduction to Solar Photovoltaics

The sun’s energy is the most abundant form of energy on the planet, and has the potential to provide for all our energy needs many times over. As a source of energy it is free and widely available. Solar Photovoltaic (Solar PV) panels convert the sun’s energy directly to electrical energy. On houses the panels are usually erected on a south facing roof where they receive the maximum amount of sunlight, and the electricity produced can then be used to power appliances, charge batteries, or be fed back into the grid. Although direct sunlight is not essential, electrical output increases with greater light intensity.


FIGURE 1: ROOF MOUNTED SOLAR INSTALLATION

1. The technology
Solar PV panels consist of a series of solar cells, made of silicon, each one capable of producing around half a volt of electricity. Individual PV cells will be connected together to form a module or panel, and then individual panels are then linked together to meet a particular need. When a photon (a unit of light energy) hits a PV cell, this increases the energy level of the electrons in the silicon, which creates a flow of electrons – i.e. electricity. Solar cells come in three main forms – monocrystalline, polycrystalline, or thin film – each working at different levels of efficiency and suitable for different types of installations.


FIGURE 2: LARGE-SCALE PV INSTALLATION (SOURCE – SOLAR CENTURY)

Solar panels produce direct current (DC) electricity. The electricity we use for most applications is at 240 volt alternating current (AC), so the electricity produced from panels will need to be converted. Solar panels will only produce electricity during sunlight hours, so a back up system of power may also be needed. If sites are not grid connected, the electricity will be used to charge a bank of batteries connected to an inverter. This converts the DC into 240 volt AC, providing usable current for most applications.

If a site is grid connected the panels can be connected to a two-way meter, which measures the current imported into the building from the grid, and the Solar PV current exported out into the grid. This allows the householder to sell the electricity to the grid when the panel is producing more energy than needed and to import energy from the grid when the panel is not producing enough electricity (i.e. at night). Therefore there will be a constant supply of electricity, and the solar electricity produced will not be wasted.

2. Area of panels
With solar PV panels being low power, quite a large area of panels will be needed in order to provide a reasonable amount of usable power. A large unshaded south facing roof is ideal. But flat roofs can also be used if they are not in the shade. Panels are then mounted on frames at the correct angle. 6m2 of high efficiency panels will produce around 1kW at peak output. A typical system for a house will cover between 10-15m2 and be rated at around 1.5-2kWp, providing for around a third of a household’s electricity needs (as long as the house is not heated by electricity). The size of a system will depend upon the area of roof available for panels, so that systems providing for much larger buildings than purely domestic dwellings can be created.


FIGURE 3: DOMESTIC SOLAR PV (SOURCE - SOLAR CENTURY)

3. Cost
Solar PV panels are relatively expensive for the amount of power they produce, and so cost will be a major consideration in these installations. A domestic system producing 1.5-2kWp will cost from around £6000. Payback periods will be quite long. Yet as these systems increase in popularity the price will fall, and therefore the economics will get better and better. There is also significant government funding for solar PV systems of all sizes, which will reduce the financial burden considerably.


FIGURE 4: INTEGRATED SOLAR TECHNOLOGY

Modern solar panels can also play a functional role in buildings as a roofing or cladding material – solar cladding panels, solar roofing tiles, solar roofing panels and solar glass are all products that can be integrated into a building. This will not only produce electricity, but also save on the cost of conventional roofing and cladding materials. This means that the economics of solar systems integrated into new buildings or refits can work out favourably, even if integrated solar components can be more expensive than conventional sit-on-top solar panels.

 

To download this factsheet on solar thermal in pdf format please click here RIGHT CLICK & 'SAVE AS' to save a copy of this file to your Computer. LEFT CLICK to open it in this window.


Introduction to Solar Thermal Energy
The sun’s energy is free and abundant, and can be used to provide green and renewable hot water for a variety of domestic and commercial situations. For Solar Thermal Water Heating systems solar collector panels are installed on roofs facing between South West and South East (the more south facing the better the performance). These collectors absorb the sun’s energy and change it into heat, which is then used to heat water. There are two main types of collector plates, and several different ways these can be used to provide hot water. Ensuring you have the right type of plate and set-up is crucial if your solar hot water system is to be as economically and environmentally efficient as possible.

1. Types of Solar Collector Plates
a) Flat Plate Collectors

The most common panels for solar water heating are flat-plate collectors. These consist of a thin metal box with insulated sides and back, a glass or plastic cover (the glazing), and a dark coloured absorber plate. The glazing allows most of the solar energy into the box whilst preventing much of the heat gained escaping. The insulation on the sides and back minimizes further heat loss to the surroundings. The absorber plate is in the box painted with a selective dark coloured coating, designed to maximize the amount of solar energy absorbed as heat. Running through the absorber plate are many fine tubes (usually made of copper), through which water is pumped. As the water travels through these tubes it ‘absorbs’ the heat – this heated water is then gathered in a larger collector pipe through which it can be transported into the household’s hot water system. A viable domestic flat plate collector will need to be around 3-4 m2.

 

 

 

 

 


Figure
1 : Installation Of Evacuated Tubes (source – solar flair)

 

b) Evacuated Tube Collectors
These are a more modern and more efficient design of solar energy collector that can heat water to much higher temperatures and require less area, yet they are also correspondingly more expensive.  Instead of an absorber plate, water is pumped though absorber tubes (metal tubes with a selective solar radiation absorbing coating), gaining heat before going into the collector pipe. Each absorber tube is housed inside a glass tube, from which the air has been evacuated, forming a vacuum. The glass tube allows solar radiation through to the absorber tube where it can be turned into heat. The vacuum eliminates convective and conductive heat loss - virtually all heat absorbed is transferred to the water. The circular shape of each evacuated tube means that solar radiation is perpendicular to the collector for a much greater time than with flat plate collectors, further improving efficiency, meaning that an evacuated tube collector need be only around 2m2 to be effective.

2. System Requirements
There are several necessary features that each system must have. Systems must have freeze protection - if the water in a system freezes it can damage the solar collector, so this needs to be guarded against.

Systems using evacuated tube collectors should also have boil protection to prevent water becoming too hot, as they can heat the water to much higher temperatures.

Any system will also require an electric pump to push the water around the system. This pump can be run by electricity provided by a solar PV panel incorporated in the roof installation – this saves on mains electricity, reduces CO2 emissions further, and in some systems helps to regulate the temperature of the water produced. The low power produced by these panels’ means a slow pump speed, which makes it a more suitable solution for flat-plate installations that require a slower water speed. Evacuated tube systems require more energy to pump the water around, and so generally will need a pump run off mains power. If solar PV is not provided, or is not suitable, then the pump will have to be run off the mains – this will incur slight running costs and offset the environmental benefits (reducing CO2 abatement by as much as 20 percent in some evacuated tube systems).

3. System set-up
Each solar hot water system will require a solar collector, plumbing to join it to the existing system, a pump to circulate water around the system (either mains electricity or solar PV), and either modification to your existing hot water storage cylinder or a new cylinder.

Each system will be tailored to the individual building, the existing hot water system and hot water needs, but can be put into one of two generalized categories, ‘open’ or ‘closed’. Again depending on the situation (space, cost, needs) systems can either be single or dual cylinder – the solar water can be stored in a large cylinder along with conventionally heated water, or it can be stored in its own separate solar hot water cylinder.

An open system heats the water that will actually be used as the household’s domestic hot water – this means that the hot water travelling through the solar collector is the water that will come out of the taps. Such systems are especially suitable if you already have a low-pressure vented hot water system – usually identifiable by a cold storage tank in the attic.

A closed system will heat water that is passed though a heat exchanger in a hot water storage cylinder, thus heating the water coming out of your taps indirectly. Such systems can be used if your hot water is kept at mains or high pressure, usually identifiable if your system provides pressurized hot water for things like showers without the need for separate pumps.

4. Costs
A small-scale solar hot water heater installation will cost from £2000-£5000, with payback times varying from as little as 5 years, to over 50 years. Accurate payback figures are dependent upon a wide range of variables and are very different for each system installed.

To ensure that a system is as economically beneficial as possible it is important that the system’s size is calculated in relation to current hot water needs. A good solar water heater installation should have a running capacity producing around 50-70% of non-space heating hot water needs – the bigger the running capacity the greater the savings but there will be a limit to how much energy a system can provide.

To minimize payback period and maximize savings you need to aim for the biggest possible running capacity for the minimal possible investment in solar collectors – installers should be able to work out the optimal size needed in respect to your household hot water needs and usage. For these systems anything too small is unlikely to provide significant benefit, anything too large and it is unlikely that the greater investment will be justified by any additional energy savings. Any quote should provide a detailed breakdown of the specification and cost of the proposed system, and be able to explain how they have calculated the size of the system to be appropriate for specific hot water needs.

For each situation there are many factors influencing which system will be best to install – considering these factors will help you choose the best system for your needs. The cheapest short-term option may not be the best or cheapest in the longer term.

  • Type and efficiency of solar collector – flat-plate collectors may be of lower efficiency and so require a larger area, but can still work out cheaper.
  • New and additional hot water cylinders – will a system need new hot water cylinders for twin tank systems, or a new bigger cylinder for a single tank system, and will this be included in the price? Is the hot water system being changed or upgraded anyway?
  • Size of cylinder and its performance – the larger the cylinder generally the greater the amount of solar energy that can be stored. They will cost more though, and require more space.
  • Installation costs – installing the system requires roof working, plumbing and often electrical skills, and the more of such work required the more expensive the installation. Simple but less efficient systems are generally cheaper to install, more complex and efficient systems cost more to install but can produce more heat. Self-installing a system will reduce costs dramatically, but requires the relevant practical skills.
  • Planning permission – most panels are governed by the same guidelines as roof light windows, generally not requiring permission. It is worth checking with your council, especially if you live in a listed building or conservation area.
  • Hard water – many systems will not function if the water is too hard, so check with the installer and your water company.